Recreational Holidays

Papua New Guinea And The Land It Shares With Indonesia

Howling their war chants and brandishing their weapons from arrows to spears to axes in your direction, consider having hundreds of Stone Age tribesmen guard you all smeared up in pig grease and soot. Forgetting all about it might be better. Consider this being entertained when it comes to the annual Highlands Show of Papua New Guinea.

Located in between and the equator is Papua New Guinea, it shares a large island with Indonesia where it owns the eastern half and is also comprised of small islands belonging to the Bismarck Archipelago. In terms of independence and nationhood, this happened in 1975 but before this occasion there were Papua and New Guinea that were under the management of considering various United Nations trust arrangements. There are lots of places in this country where the western way of life is unknown.

It was during the 1930s when white men traveling on foot were able to explore these rugged Highlands. Up to now, the white man has not ceased to attract onlookers and at the Highlands Show a tourist with a camera is just as amazing as the painted warrior who is performing. Mostly Papua New Guineans, there are about 60,000 people who watch this two day show normally held alternately in the towns of Goroka and Mount Hagen. Because they want to participate in the festivities, some people will walk long distances from places like Telefomin, Wapenamanda, and Ukarumpa.

Beside the usual agricultural and crafts exhibits being staged here there are demonstrations for fire making and house building. Aside from these, the show has light entertainment. Complete with their weapons, events like chasing after the greased pig, bicycle races, and climbing up a greased pole with dangling beer and cigarettes are participated in by barefoot competitors. The tribes displaying their treasured ceremonial attire during the sing sing competition to tourists and locals is the climax of the weekend.

As the pace changes to simulate a battle or stage a legend from tribal history, the people dance and chant accompanied by the deep hollow beat of the kundu drum even under the scorching heat. What is amazing about the Highlands sing is the kaleidoscope of color and costume. Fantastically embellishing themselves are the dancers. They cover their bodies in the darkest soot and their faces in red and blue ochre and for the trimmings they use store bought crepe paper, leaves, beads, and feathers. Instead of the usual pig’s tusk or other bone, their pierced septums are decorated with ball point pens or a piece of an automobile engine and for their earrings they have safety pins.

What are unwrapped and displayed here are the village heirlooms. Normally, children will wear their headpieces made from the fur of the spotted cuscus, a small marsupial, with pride. Much value is still given to the seashells people have as these were once a form of currency. Some people are lucky enough to witness the tall swaying plumes of the cassowary and of the peacock like Raggiana Bird of Paradise which is the national symbol.

Another thing to see are the eerie Asaro mudmen. They coat themselves in white mud and fabricate grotesque heads by using sun baked clay and straw. Slapping leaves off their thighs, they dance their swaying dance. From a legend comes the story of how one tribe retreated into the Asaro River when their enemies pursued them.

Because they appeared looking like ghosts as they were covered in the white clay, their enemies fled. Covering themselves in the same river mud, the Asaro mudmen continue to commemorate this victory. For those who came out with the best costumes and delivered the best presentations, they were awarded with cash and cattle prizes after all the sing sings. When the sun starts sinking, the people start trekking downhill to go home.

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